Copenhagen Fashion Week is celebrating two decades on the international fashion calendar with a Spring 2027 edition that further establishes the Danish capital as one of the industry’s most influential creative hubs. From August 3 to August 7, more than 34 shows and presentations will bring together established Scandinavian houses, independent labels, and a new generation of designers.
The Spring 2027 lineup features some of Copenhagen’s best-known names, including Henrik Vibskov, Baum und Pferdgarten, and By Malene Birger. The season also welcomes Collina Strada as the official International Guest. Founded in New York, the label will make its Copenhagen Fashion Week debut on August 6, with designer Hillary Taymour presenting the brand’s SS27 collection.
The schedule also puts emerging talent in the spotlight. Stem, Taus, and Renè are among the newer names presenting this season, while Anne Sofie Madsen and former CPHFW New Talent designer Nicklas Skovgaard return to the calendar.
With such a varied lineup, the Spring 2027 season offers a fascinating look at the many sides of contemporary Copenhagen fashion. Here are five collections that deserve particular attention.
Collina Strada
Making its first appearance at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Collina Strada stepped into the International Guest spotlight with a presentation that brought the label’s unmistakable New York attitude to the Danish capital.
The SS27 collection combined romanticism with experimentation, using dramatic ruffles, metallic surfaces, asymmetrical cuts, and gathered fabrics to create expressive silhouettes with plenty of volume.
There was also a noticeable bridal influence, with delicate details and softer shapes appearing throughout the collection. Elizabethan-inspired beauty looks pushed the romantic and historical references further, creating an unusual contrast with the modern construction of the garments.
The collection’s strongest moments came from these unexpected combinations. Traditional ideas of femininity were disrupted by exaggerated proportions, while elegant finishes were mixed with deliberately unconventional styling.
The result was theatrical without losing its playful character, making Collina Strada’s first Copenhagen presentation a memorable addition to the Spring 2027 schedule.
By Malene Birger
By Malene Birger returned to the runway for the first time in six years, giving its Spring 2027 presentation a particularly emotional quality. Creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeld chose the gardens of her parents’ home outside Copenhagen as the setting, creating an intimate connection between the location and the collection.
The idea of homecoming was reflected throughout the presentation, turning the runway return into a broader exploration of the brand’s origins and evolution.
The collection moved through a carefully considered color progression. Soft whites and neutral shades appeared first, followed by warmer golden tones and finally darker black looks designed for evening.
Sun motifs and related details appeared across the garments, reinforcing the connection to the changing light of the day. The clothes themselves maintained a relaxed sophistication, with fluid dresses, loose tailoring, draped separates, and lightweight outerwear forming the core of the wardrobe.
The house’s history was referenced through subtle design details rather than direct recreations. Tassel-trimmed coats, scarf-inspired tops, and reflective embroidery added familiar touches while keeping the overall collection contemporary.
The influence of the 1990s could also be seen in several sheer evening looks, which recalled the understated sensuality of the era’s supermodel fashion. Their effortless styling prevented the references from feeling overly nostalgic.
Ultimately, By Malene Birger created a collection that acknowledged its history while moving confidently forward, translating the brand’s established codes into a modern Scandinavian wardrobe.
Henrik Vibskov
Henrik Vibskov once again approached fashion from an experimental perspective for Spring 2027, exploring scale, structure, texture, and proportion throughout the collection.
Oversized garments were placed against more fitted silhouettes, creating a constant contrast between volume and shape. Sculptural forms, graphic elements, unusual construction, and playful accessories contributed to the collection’s artistic identity.
Despite the more conceptual runway presentation, many of the individual garments remained surprisingly versatile. Pieces could be separated from the layered styling and worn in more straightforward ways, allowing the collection’s ideas to extend beyond the runway.
This relationship between experimentation and functionality has long been central to Vibskov’s work. His designs challenge familiar ideas about how clothing should look and fit, but they rarely lose sight of the person wearing them.
For Spring 2027, the designer once again demonstrated his ability to turn Copenhagen’s creative and unconventional spirit into a highly personal fashion language.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Baum und Pferdgarten brought its playful approach to contemporary femininity to the Spring 2027 runway, combining polished tailoring with relaxed silhouettes, striking prints, and unexpected combinations.
The collection shifted between structured jackets and trousers, romantic dresses, flowing fabrics, and more casual pieces. Contrasting textures and bold patterns gave the looks energy, while unconventional styling kept the overall presentation dynamic.
Rather than focusing on one version of femininity, the collection presented several different interpretations. Sharper tailoring created a confident and structured mood, while softer materials and flowing silhouettes introduced a more relaxed sensibility.
Wearability remained a key part of the collection. Many of the pieces could easily be adapted to different situations, moving between everyday dressing and more elevated styling.
That combination of individuality and practicality continues to define Baum und Pferdgarten. For Spring 2027, the label once again showed that fashion can be expressive and playful without becoming difficult to wear.
Stem
Among the emerging names on the Spring 2027 schedule, Stem offered a quieter and more architectural take on contemporary Scandinavian dressing.
The collection placed emphasis on precise cuts, fluid shapes, material, and subtle construction details. Rather than relying on embellishment, Stem allowed the garments’ proportions and fabrics to create the visual impact.
The initial impression was minimalist, but the collection revealed greater complexity upon closer inspection. Unexpected shapes, nuanced textures, and thoughtful styling gave the clothes a sense of depth without compromising their restrained aesthetic.
Stem’s approach reflects the changing landscape of Nordic fashion. For a younger generation of designers, minimalism is becoming less about following a fixed formula and more about creating space for experimentation.
The Spring 2027 collection felt fresh and self-assured, combining youthful energy with a sophisticated understanding of construction. It also positioned Stem as a promising name within Copenhagen’s emerging fashion scene.
