For its Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2026–2027 season, Schiaparelli unveiled The Call of the Void, a collection that once again blurred the boundaries between couture, art, and fantasy.
Guided by Creative Director Daniel Roseberry, the maison presented a lineup rooted in intuition, uncertainty, and the creative possibilities that emerge when familiar formulas are left behind.
The collection followed the success of Roseberry’s previous couture presentation, The Agony and the Ecstasy. Looking back on that achievement, the designer admitted he briefly believed he had unlocked a reliable formula for success. Yet his efforts to recreate that momentum ultimately led him to a very different conclusion: creativity cannot be manufactured through repetition or certainty. Instead, it requires experimentation, vulnerability, and a willingness to embrace the unfamiliar.
This realization became the conceptual foundation of The Call of the Void, a title inspired by the French expression l’appel du vide — the curious and often inexplicable impulse that draws us toward the unknown rather than away from it. The idea feels particularly relevant to Schiaparelli, a house whose legacy has always been shaped by surrealism, spontaneity, and an attraction to the unexpected.
Roseberry translated this philosophy into a collection that questioned traditional ideas surrounding couture luxury. Moving beyond classic fabrics such as silk, satin, and wool, Schiaparelli incorporated materials including silicone, latex, and heat-treated paint, transforming them through exceptional craftsmanship into sculptural works of fashion.
Among the collection’s defining pieces was a remarkably lifelike silicone corset rendered in a delicate milky blue tone and paired with a dramatic skirt adorned with hundreds of handcrafted flowers made from stretched hosiery, pearls, and wire. Existing somewhere between garment and sculpture, the look perfectly captured the surrealist identity that has long distinguished the house.
Elsewhere, natural flowers, fish scales, and flowing latex details appeared throughout the collection, creating silhouettes that seemed to belong to an imagined underwater universe. These unconventional elements introduced a sense of movement and metamorphosis, reinforcing the collection’s themes of discovery and transformation.
The color palette drew inspiration from marine life and the natural world, pairing lobster pink, vibrant violet, luminous orange, and soft mint green with glossy black finishes and raw ecru tones. Gold, one of Schiaparelli’s most enduring signatures, remained central to the collection, appearing in sculptural embellishments that emphasized the house’s distinctive approach to adornment.
Roseberry also revisited several of Schiaparelli’s most recognizable house codes. The signature jacket returned in reimagined forms featuring elaborate embroidery and intricate detailing, transforming traditional tailoring into dramatic architectural statements.
Accessories continued to expand the collection’s surrealist narrative. New versions of the Secret bag featured floral embroidery and crinoline-inspired accents, while the Bubble shoe was updated with futuristic silicone finishes. Jewelry inspired by seashells, sea anemones, and octopus tentacles further strengthened the dialogue between imagination and nature that defined the collection.
More than a showcase of craftsmanship, The Call of the Void serves as a reflection on the creative process itself. Roseberry explores the relationship between instinct and control, suggesting that the most compelling ideas often emerge when certainty is replaced by curiosity and openness to possibility.
Perhaps the collection’s most notable accomplishment lies in its reconsideration of luxury. Silicone and latex are employed not as provocative novelties, but as refined materials capable of expressing innovation, artistry, and craftsmanship in entirely new ways.
Some of the designs may feel closer to contemporary sculpture than traditional ready-to-wear, but that tension has always been integral to Schiaparelli’s identity. The house has never sought to satisfy convention; instead, it has consistently challenged expectations and expanded fashion’s creative boundaries.
With The Call of the Void, Daniel Roseberry delivers a collection that is both visually captivating and intellectually ambitious, reaffirming haute couture’s enduring ability to provoke, inspire, and redefine the possibilities of creative expression.
