The designer bets on femininity among feathers and rhinestones.
For Paris Fashion Week, Elie Saab wrote an ode to twilight, a play of shadows drawn in contrasts between geometric lines and rounded sun-like shapes. His models walked on the runway behind translucent panels and their silhouettes outlined by the sun shining through the skylights of the Carreau du Temple venue. The aim was to reveal themselves in shades ranging from the palest pinks and blues to the vivid red of the evening sky or the black of midnight.
Named “The Biginning of Twilight“, the collection featured ethereal tones, curved lines and opulent textures inspired by twilight. Each silhouette embodied the power and grace of the ever-changing setting sun. A mosaic of braided silk threads and mirrored gemstone embroidery came together in voluminous jackets that rose above the shoulders like a billowing crown.
“Large, floor-length layers of satin, with majestic lines at the shoulders, exhibit masculine dominance in layers of multicolored plumage. Gemstones and beads cling to the skin like slippery stardust and are given definition and shape from gauzy cutouts in contour. Large braids of gold beads snake around colored stones, transforming into neck ornament necklaces and sculpted waists of simple off-white mermaid gowns. The indefinable bride shimmers, herself a vision shimmering in a tantalizing spectrum of pastel colors. Wrapped in a veil of crystals, she gives way to a hypnotic evening full of wild intrigue.” – by Elie Saab.
Endless beaded embroideries, full of sparkles and reflections dazzled as they passed down the runway.
Glittering snake embellishments provided sinuous structure to simpler silhouettes, while sequined strands and dangling crystals jingled on the runway. The zigzag motifs of feathered mermaid skirts in dark hues evolved into versions made in myriad circles of chiffon, fluttering like a myriad of petals. Playing with regal references, she elongated and exaggerated the silhouette with high necklines, often heavily bejeweled, majestic capes and tails, and billowing boleros that framed the head like gigantic silk crowns.
There was also a specter of feathers dancing with black velvet tapestries, and caressing each other in bodices that alternated between opacity and transparency. Tufts of lace rushed over exaggerated collars and exaggerated necklines, while beaded bangs swung down sleeves, captivating the eye with shimmering movement.
Among the most interesting silhouettes, a reverse feline motif was transformed into a symmetrical brocade-like pattern on the bodice of a dress. Other highlights included an asymmetrical second-skin mini-dress with dangling crystal threads and a jumpsuit in white and blue with a deep sweetheart neckline.
Shrouded in mystery, ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022-23 is captivating and exhibits a shimmering charm that captures attention at a time when everything is familiar, but nothing is what it seems. As the light flows softly into the darkness, there is breath for the enchanted.
Discover Elie Saab Couture Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection below.
