The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda fashion show held in Sicily once again made clear the romance that the firm has established for years with religious references and the purest baroque.
To celebrate the tenth anniversary of their haute couture shows, Sicilian designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana paid homage to their homeland with a fabulous star-studded show full of references to Italian culture.
The fashion show took place in the cathedral of Syracuse, a Unesco World Heritage Site, in the historic centre of the Sicilian island of Ortigia.
Sicily is a special place for Dolce. He was born there. “Syracuse is a special place for us,” Gabbana explained before the fashion show. “It’s in the southernmost part of Sicily, facing Africa. I love the feeling, I love the atmosphere, I love the stones, the colours, the people.”
It was the Sicilian woman that inspired this latest collection: ‘if you ask someone to imagine the Sicilian woman of the past, they think of black. ‘Black is sensual,’ said Domenico. ‘And she had become larger than life.
Black veils underpinned the collection and transparency were employed to the fullest. Hosiery was visible under pleated chiffon skirts when the models walked, but opaque when they stopped was suggestive in a romantic way. Lace and embroidered dresses showed flashes of skin through the sheer material so that each model was modestly covered, but not really.
“Alta Moda, for me, is about surprises,” said Gabbana. “Every time we start a collection, I want to surprise myself. Every time is a challenge. I want to say something more. And I am full of curiosity.”
Roman Catholic influences were consistent: rosaries with huge precious stones and necklaces with crosses joined the delicately embroidered veils. Silver and gold boots were adorned with sticky stones that reflected the Sicilian sunlight and sparkled like armour. Adding to that strong image was the gold boning, which resembled a deconstructed corset. For the house’s core customers, these eye-catching elements were sure to be tempting.
Pops of yellow, lime green, pink, red and orange cut through the otherwise sombre palette, while oversized blazer dresses were laden with gold embroidery, dazzling crystal work or floral appliques, and paired with rhinestone-covered boots or delicate, flowery tights. A hot pink micro skirt with a matching cropped jacket shimmered emphatically as the model moved, while another silver dress was befitting of a Marvel heroine.
Of course, the fashion show was full of familiar faces. On the catwalk was the beautiful Deva, daughter of Vincent and Monica Bellucci and already the face of the brand.
Drew Barrymore, Mariah Carey, Sharon Stone and Helen Mirren were some of the highlights, all wearing fabulous designs from the Italian house.
