Giant hats, polka dots and piles of raffia added a touch of haute couture to Jacquemus’ mega Spring fashion show.
For his latest collection, titled “Le Raphia”, Simon Porte Jacquemus focused on the raffia palm, reinventing it with a clever twist and channelling its raw, organic simplicity.
“This is my last show,” Simon Porte Jacquemus solemnly announced on his Instagram Stories, signalling an intake of encouragement from the industry and influencers. Then, he quickly added (as a joke): “of the year.”
The raffia motif recalled the wheat field setting for his July 2020 show, one of many far-flung destinations shows he has done, including the popular lavender fields show in Provence. According to the show notes, Jacquemus wanted to channel the summer feel and return to a more “artisanal” spirit, hence the couture techniques he is proposing today with raffia.
“It’s the end of summer. All these colours, all the dreams that I saw, that I had, are leaving. The smell, the beauty, the raffia rain takes it all away as in a dream… Will I see again those big hats, those flower buckles, those prints? I think so,” read the notes of the JACQUEMUS fashion show.
As in his previous collections, this Spring/Summer 2023 collection focused on craftsmanship and artisanal details; for example, raffia was hand-embroidered by Maison Lesage and transformed into fabrics used to make these custom garments and as details on accessories and shoes.
Under a straw storm raining down from above, we saw their huge cartwheel sun hats coming out, balancing on their tiny cut-out garments, some with trails, others with scurrying, puffy drapes and still more with bits and pieces suspended from little strips of lingerie.
Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, almost synonymous with beige, white and Mediterranean blue, seems to be in the mood to try new things. A spirit of mid-century couture woven through his latest see now, buy now collection, seen in dramatic hats and fluffy embellishments, while menswear felt more fun and gender fluid.
The French designer’s styling for the show remained unchanged: he chose the coldest day of the year to invite the fashion pack at Le Bourget airport and set up a large circular set adorned with cream carpets and a host of influencers and celebrities.
“The idea of something so summery, and almost making fun of ourselves with the oversized hats,” the designer said backstage, explaining that a raffia technique developed with embroidery house Lesage became the main leitmotif and an ironic way to evoke fur. “We wanted something super elegant.”
Otherwise, the new collection featured bright knitwear, handcrafted beading and tasselled mesh garments, continually juxtaposing playful details with traditional craftsmanship. SS23 also welcomed a range of “close-to-the-body” beachwear, effortlessly transforming from day to night through embroidered dresses, men’s tank tops and denim. Silver jeans were also present on the runway, with oversized shawls and boots.
Accessories caught all attention. There were very wide-brimmed hats in woven straw or raffia, leather clogs, new mini-bags and earrings with exaggerated flower-shaped proportions. Polka-dot pedals with colossal white collars reminiscent of their early days made a prominent appearance on the runway, too.
Typically for Jacquemus, the crowd was packed with big names, including Pamela Anderson, Skepta, Pamela Anderson, Christine Quinn, Drag Race winner Symone, Richie Shazam and Emma Chamberlain.
Singer C. Tangana, Rocio Aguirre, BLACKPINK member Jennie, Two Elite actors, Manu Rios and Arón Piper, designers Amina Muaddi, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Daniel Roseberry, were in attendance.
