Marc Jacobs released its Spring 2023 RTW collection as a tribute to late British designer Vivienne Westwood and her style.
“Fashion is life-enhancing, and I think it’s a lovely, generous thing to do for other people.”.
So said Vivienne Westwood, the British designer who passed away in December at 81. At the end of his Spring 2023 Ready-To-Wear show, creative director Marc Jacobs mentioned Westwood’s quote to honour her and as a memorial of sorts to Vivienne’s influence on both the fashion industry and the Maison in the ‘90s, becoming a closer friend for Jacobs. When Westwood died in 2022, the designer posted a black-and-white photo of the legendary designer as a young woman, with the words: “I continue to learn from your words and all your extraordinary creations.”
Titled “Heroes,”, the collection was held at the 643 Park Avenue Armony in the Upper East Side district of New York, marking the return of the label to physical shows for the first time since their announcement of only digital runway shows in 2020 due to COVID-19. A single violinist was playing the jarring, dissonant notes of Philip Glass’s “Knee Play 2” from his opera “Einstein on the Beach.” Then from out of the darkness came the light.
For his latest Spring 2023 RTW collection, creative designer Marc Jacobs got inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s punk style, recreating the designer’s looks and adding them to his collection with his own touch. Marc wanted to honour “all of our heroes past, and, young heroes present,”.
Marc Jacobs showcased 45 looks, all-embracing Vivienne Westwood’s timeless elegance and style, which could perfectly be seen throughout the collection. Many of the models had the sort of bleached-out or carrot-top crop favoured by Ms Westwood. There were also high-heeled platform shoes, peroxide wigs, Kiki platform shoes, punk verves, and body-hugging garments bleached off or using denim, canvas, faux fur, patchwork, and crushed velvet, all reminiscent of the old punk movement.
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As regards silhouettes, Marc Jacobs is known for its extravagant and expressive ones. This spring 2023 collection did not disappoint as the brand showcased its collection, with Jacobs offered interesting, dramatic and creative silhouettes in volume and structure, of course, with punk elements. He also looked back at his own creations from early in his career: spiky and dyed hairstyles. There were oversized outwear shapes and draped gowns while textural patchwork and crushed velvet emphasized the punk aesthetic. Long quilted coats, down jackets worn with skirts and knitwear, and wrinkled evening gowns perfectly portrayed Jacobs and Westwood aesthetic.
“With the turn of another season in our endless search for value, importance, and possibilities, it is through these collections that we continue our ever-expanding notions of beauty and craft,” Jacobs said. “With a controlled abandon and driving frenetic energy, we reflect on life beyond the studio.”
Sofia Coppola, Ashley Graham, Nicky Hilton and Emily Ratajkowski, plus icons Debbie Harry, Debi Mazar and Anna Sui, were some of the stars attending the front-row and sitting on folding chairs in a spare and barely lit space.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2023 aimed to remind Vivienne Westwood’s creativity, timeless style and elegance. All these aspects could perfectly be portrayed in all the looks as key elements favoured by Ms. Westwood were seen throughout the show. Her contributions to the fashion industry and deep influence will always be remembered. There will be an official memorial to Ms. Westwood in a few weeks at the start of the London RTW shows. But for now, there is this: one designer paying homage to another.
Below, see some of the boldest looks from Marc Jacobs Spring 2023.
