Irina Shayk, Shalom Harlow and Naomi Campbell walk in an animal-packed couture show, while Kylie Jenner and Doja Cat sit front row.
The 2020s belong to Schiaparelli and Schiaparelli alone. The brand has maintained the freshness in its designs and continued to astonish fashion enthusiasts as they kicked off Paris Couture Week in style. Today, at Le Petit Palais, Daniel Roseberry cemented his status as the eminent couturier of a generation with his latest collection. Ultra A-List attendees including Kylie Jenner, Doja Cat, and former Tatler cover star Diane Kruger rubbed shoulders on the coveted front row, inaugurating a glittering new season of couture.
In the short time since he took the helm at heritage couture house Schiaparelli in 2019, Daniel Roseberry has succeeded in re energising the brand with the avant-garde, outré aesthetic its founder Elsa Schiaparelli was famous for – and in so doing, he’s cemented Schiaparelli at the vanguard of contemporary cool. This year alone, Roseberry has dressed Rihanna (in a custom oversized opera coat at the Golden Globes), Julia Roberts (in bespoke embroidered sun rays at the Critics’ Choice Awards), Kendall Jenner (in a chain-linked, lip-bedecked halter-neck dress at Beyoncé’s Atlantis performance in Dubai) and Hailey Bieber (in a giant gold-belted jumpsuit at the launch of OBB Studios in Hollywood).
In his self-penned show notes, Roseberry cited Dante’s Inferno as the inspiration behind the collection, likening its protagonist’s uncertain journey into hell to the doubt that falls upon a designer like himself when he sits down to design. “This collection is my homage to doubt,” he wrote. “I wanted to step away from techniques I was comfortable with and understood, to choose instead that dark wood where everything is scary but new.”
Making a splash on the front row was Kylie Jenner wearing a ruched black velvet maxi dress with a giant 3D lion’s head attached — corsage-like — that covered most of her torso. She accessorised with a pair of golden toe-capped heels and a gold snakeskin bag.
Dripping in 30,000 red Swarovski crystals, applied by hand all over her face and body, Doja Cat was the living embodiment of extravagant fashion. The full monochrome look was complete with a red bustier and red skirt made of wooden beads.
Roseberry’s show notes finished on a sentimental key: “Inferno, Purgatorio, Paradiso,” he wrote, referring to the three books that make up The Divine Comedy. “One cannot exist without the others. It is a reminder that there is no such thing as heaven without hell; there is no joy without sorrow; there is no ecstasy of creation without the torture of doubt. My prayer for myself is that I remember that always – that, on my most difficult days, when inspiration just won’t come, I remember that no ascension to heaven is possible without first a trip to the fires, and the fear that comes with it. Let me embrace it always.” As a wise lion once said: Hakuna matata.
Let’s checkout some of the looks from the show.
