Creative Director Matthew Williams lends a contemporary approach to classic subcultural tropes and dress codes.
Givenchy presented its spring-summer ’23 men’s collection on June 22 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Creative director Matthew M. Williams offered more of his streetwear-centric aesthetic to the brand in what was described as archetypal silhouettes for the collection.
Williams also analyzed the classic subcultural uniforms of his native America, interpreting this influence through Givenchy’s vision. Featured themes included relaxed tailoring customized to replicate the DIY alterations of a school uniform, embroidered leather varsity jackets inspired by military surplus, and a recurring camouflage motif, shown on tactical vests, cargo pants and technical jackets.
The fashion show took place in the heart of the École Militaire, located in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Matthew M. Williams did a great job with a set in the form of a white pool. A white cube appeared to be floating and served as a backdrop for the models who walked on the water.
Unveiling the collection, Williams said:
“Menswear was, quite naturally, the way I discovered fashion. In my practice at Givenchy, my men’s collections came from an instinctive starting point. This show is a reflection of myself and the men who surround me, from my close friends to the artists who inspired my work. It’s a dialogue with the time and culture that shape the way men dress today and tomorrow: the way new generations embrace and evolve the archetypes and dress codes of the past through their own progressive outlook. It’s a thrilling evolution and the reason I have chosen this moment to stage a stand-alone men’s show for Givenchy.”
Throughout the collection, the idea of wear was championed. Some of the camouflage items were constructed with white camouflage covered with ripstop nylon. As they were worn, the white camouflage underneath becomes visible. Elsewhere, over-dyed outer jackets and military parkas referenced their original fluorescent colours through their linings.
Another highlight of the collection was the footwear, including the recently unveiled TK-MX sneaker. Constructed with a mesh and synthetic leather upper, the silhouette came in a range of colour combinations ranging from subtle black or white to bold silver and yellow, silver and green and black and yellow designs.
The collection also updated the TK-360 silhouette with the new TK-360-MID with a taller construction and monochromatic colourways, as well as introducing a new vulcanized rubber rain boot that arrived in a variety of colourways including “Créme,” “Coral”, and a reflective spray paint design.
