Daniel Roseberry turns the runway into a hypnotic blend of art, fashion, and performance.
At the Centre Pompidou in Paris, anticipation hung in the air as the lights dimmed. In that charged silence, Daniel Roseberry unveiled Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Dancer in the Dark.” Far from a conventional runway show, the presentation felt like a living artwork—a delicate exploration of contrasts between shadow and light, restraint and abandon, elegance and daring.
Under Roseberry’s guidance, Schiaparelli has become a house where surrealism is not merely referenced but lived, where garments serve as both emotional expression and sculptural statement. With this new collection, Roseberry transformed movement into design: fabrics floated, structures hovered, and each look told a story of tension and release. The runway became a stage, the models performers in a ballet of light, shadow, and sensation.
The collection opened with a simple yet powerful image: a black gown traced with white chalk-like lines that appeared to breathe with the model’s movements. It set the tone for an evening in which imagination and reality intertwined seamlessly. Fragile-looking blouses revealed complex internal constructions, while gold paintbrushes hung from tailored suits, symbolizing the weight and labor of creation. Schiaparelli’s signature wit appeared in lacquered eggshell hats and golden hand-shaped accessories, playful nods to Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist heritage.
Movement was central. Alex Consani glided in sheer black layers, a golden spine tracing her back, ethereal and commanding at once. Moments later, Kendall Jenner emerged in a daring ensemble of lace and black ponyhair, a study in provocative elegance. Roseberry balanced audacity with precision, creating a collection that was simultaneously theatrical and sophisticated.
Though the title hinted at shadow, the collection shimmered with light. Metallic threads caught the glow, golden details gleamed, and sheer fabrics reflected soft illumination, turning transparency into a medium for emotion and storytelling. Roseberry’s women are not objects of desire—they are authors of their presence. Each movement, gesture, and pause communicated power, vulnerability, and allure.
Celebrity appearances added depth without distraction. Kendall Jenner’s confident walk embodied modern femininity, while Kylie Jenner and Rosalía watched from the front row, bridging pop culture and couture seamlessly. Yet the emotional resonance of the collection remained the focus, exemplified by a gown whose peeling layers revealed shimmering gold beneath—a metaphor for beauty through transformation and imperfection.
Even in ready-to-wear, Roseberry applies the precision of a couturier. Each seam, fold, and embellishment is purposeful, yet garments maintain fluidity and vitality. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection thrives on contrasts: weight and air, restraint and extravagance, intellect and instinct. In this interplay, fashion becomes dialogue—each piece interacting with its wearer, reflecting thought, emotion, and personality.
Nearly a century after Elsa Schiaparelli broke the rules of fashion, Daniel Roseberry carries her spirit forward with fearless creativity. “Dancer in the Dark” is not just homage—it is evolution, a reminder that fashion’s power lies in its ability to surprise, to provoke, and to illuminate.
As the final model disappeared into shadow and applause filled the hall, it became clear: Roseberry’s vision of darkness is one of discovery. In every seam, silhouette, and shimmer, he reminds us that beauty emerges from tension, and true glamour resides in contrast. With this collection, Schiaparelli proves once again that surrealism, elegance, and modernity can coexist in perfect harmony.
